The allpication of ceramics be it vertically or horizontally to a  surface is a skilled / trade onto itself. Europeans are usually masters at this skill but in North America most residential buildings are constructed with wood framing were as in  many southern European countries the predominance of homes were ceramics decorates floors and walls, homes are built  with concrete, mortar, clay and blocks. 

Installing  ceramic tiles atop existing flooring in traditional wood framed homes can have negative consequences if a plan is not drawn out with measurements calculated..
Prior the ceramics being applied; 
1: Sub Flooring / substrate;  Any subfloor must be structurally sound and able to support the extra load. 
Ceramic tile floors are heavy. The ceramics is a hard surfaced brittle material. 
Ceramic Tiles can crack and break or even dislodge if the substrate, the surface below through deflection in the joists.. Mortar; Selecting the proper thinnest mortar for ceramic tile adds strength.


To install ceramic tiles correctly, an even flat, ridged stable surface is required.
Plywood must be installed over "an adequate subfloor" and must be at least 1 1/8" / one inch /and one eight inches thick when combined with the subfloor. Interior-grade plywood and particleboard are not considered a strong enough for a tile installation.

Always follow the manufacturer's directions, including all materials one should use.


Cutting corners for real
In the zoomed in high definition image, you can visually determine how the ceramic installer worked. 
Poor building practices. Any subflooring appears absent.  If there was, the substrate did not continue to the wall.
As for the mortar, The mortar base, the thinnest,  appears too thick and void of notching.

An exposed areas such as the one in this Cutting Corners For Real blog allows an individual to dissect the application and see any defective installation practices and what materials were used and how they were applied.

This old house link shows you how to apply ceramic tiles correctly. 

What GAUGE should a home's electrical service wiring be as compared to a breaker size in a household panel?

What happens if the wires are undersized?

Choosing the correct wire gauge within a  home is important. 
The service wiring sizes that run from an electrical distribution panel or (load center) breaker to the various  electrical outlets (receptacles/switches) for appliances is crucial. You do not want a wire to act as a fuse and burn should a short circuit occur.

Below are the corresponding wire gauges as recommended for the size of the breaker, or overcurrent protection device/s, installed in residential first point of services or mechanical service electrical panels or (load center.)

What occurs if there is mechanical damage reducing the wire  GAUGE  due to amateurish installations?
Amateur Electrical Work Can Be Dangerous.

Circuit breakers are overcurrent protection devices (OCPD) that are designed to break the circuit and prevent equipment damage or fire. When too much current runs through a circuit the heat in the circuit exceeds the breaker 's load rating and it trips, shutting off the electrical power. Proper sizing eliminates overloads and insures safe electrical operation. Circuit breakers are designed to carry 100% of their rated current while the NEC dictates an 80% application.

A commonly misunderstood fact about circuit breakers (CBs) is related to the percentage of loading permitted by the NEC and the CB design, and why the two may be different. Let's investigate both aspects.
Read more....

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-strip-a-wireThe installer must pay attention to the work he does.  By reducing wire size and increasing it again, creates resistance which creates heat. While Working with Wire strippers the installer must ensure there is no mechanical damage/. That the wires are all in accordance with  the NEC requirements  when attached to a breaker terminal and under lugs.

If you or your crews are going to be working at heights (10 feet or higher) in Ontario, you need to know about the new Ministry of Labour (MOL) standard. It took effect yesterday (April 1, 2015).

The need for this new Standard was again hammered home with two unnecessary deaths by two construction workers in Toronto last week. The MOL I’m sure have already set the wheels in motion to investigate this serious incident. They will undoubtedly find fault and they will prosecute all those found guilty in a court of law for non-compliance under the Occupational Health and Safety Act.

The devastation, the pain and the hardship caused to these two victims and their families can never be measured. Yet there will be no fanfare, no draped coffins, no motorcade, no mass of people lining the highways and byways for these two fallen heroes on their way to their final resting place.

So the new Working at Heights Standard is not a pointless regulation. Law requires everyone on your job site to be adequately trained, and to be able to PROVE to MOL inspectors that they’ve been adequately trained. If there is an accident on your site and there are serious injuries or deaths, you will have to prove your due diligence in court: that you did indeed make sure your workers were adequately trained. That means you have to keep training records as part of a safety manual (Policy & Procedures). This may be your only recourse from fines and prosecution.

What is adequate training? It covers items like: Awareness of slip trips and falls, guardrail requirements, the three rights under law everyone has and needs to know, including how do they exercise them. It identify roles and responsibilities of employer, constructor, supplier, supervisor and workers, sub trades and everyone involved. It tells everyone who is responsible for safety and that everyone must report defects and fall hazards to employers, constructors, supervisor, general contractor or anyone who hires someone to carry out work for them. Meaning you.

In simple terms, EVERYONE on a construction site, including home renovations needs Fall Training (adequate training) and anyone working above 10 feet (from a work surface) needs the New Standard.

Click on the link below to learn more about CARAHS.

The point of acclimating for wood flooring components, like hard wood floors or engineered flooring, is to address acclimatisation. To allow  any abnormal relative moisture  to escape and to allow the flooring material to adjust normally within the conditioned space.

Temperature and relative humidity is typically different between any manufacturing stages, material storage facilities, and the new conditioned space the wooden flooring material is being introduced to.

1: Once milled, the flooring should be stored in dry, well-ventilated and maintained warehouse before shipment to job sites. This allows the material to remain relatively unchanged in dimension and to avoid  excessive over handling  which make case mechanical damage.

2: Before any wooden flooring is delivered, the work site must be assessed to determine if all the components are ready to accept the material. Wood should not be delivered if a work site conditions are excessively moist. Otherwise, one material will absorb moisture from the other material. The effects  of excessive  onsite moisture on materials can affect the  manufacturer's performance long after the job has been completed.

3: The Builder's Checklist" can assist as a pre-installation evaluation of the work site. Problems identified while completing the checklist should be brought to the attention of the general contractor or owner before installation is begun.

The wood flooring industry has done a good job in recent years communicating the message that wood flooring is a dynamic material subject to changes in dimension as a result of changes in humidity in the surrounding environment. 

The message has to get through to the installers.
Read more about wooden flooring...http://www.woodfloorsonline.com/techtalk/woodwater3.html

 
Don't break the balloon or the party will be over!
The same goes for any blisters on a membrane roof.

One reason for the blisters, water vapor trapped between the plies of modified or organic felt mat, or water vapor trapped in wooden deck substrate/s, when the new BUR roof is applied.

There are several causes for blistering or bubbles. Just don't pop the balloon or the party is over.

Here is a page from the national research council by by K.K.Y. Liu, R.M. Paroli and T.L. Smith. http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/ctu-sc/ctu_sc_n38
This Update, based on an IRC, or IRC Building Sciences Group Inc. study, describes causes of blistering in styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS) modified bituminous roofs, suggests ways to prevent it and recommends methods to deal with it.

Blisters form in a hot-applied modified bituminous membrane for the same reason as in a BUR: voids built into the roof. Voids can result from skips in bitumen mopping, entrapped debris, uneven substrates, unrelaxed membranes, or entrapped gases resulting from moisture in the materials. During the heat of the day, air and moisture trapped in the void expand. The pressure developed in the void stretches the warm flexible membranes and displaces them to form a blister. During the night, the membranes cool, become stiff, and resist returning to their original shape. This process creates a partial vacuum within the blister, and more air is drawn into the blister through micro-cracks in the membranes. The blister is now slightly bigger and ready to start another cycle the next day. As in BUR, the blisters grow when the volume of air drawn into them during the night is higher than that forced out of them during the day, and when the increased pressure overcomes the strength of the peripheral bond of the blister. The presence of water vapour accelerates blister growth according to this same cyclic pumping action.
So remember, don't break the balloon or the party will be over. you will be going home in the rain.

Home inspectors should think twice before walking on wooden shingles and shakes, clay tiles, slate and other forms of roofing.
The home inspector should be knowledgeable about all roofing surfaces.  
If you damage the roof you are responsible. If you slip and fall you are responsible.

Inspecting roof membranes/coverings and metal flashings/copings requires an integral understanding to the material, application process, weather, age and more. 

When inspecting wooden shingles and shakes, clay tiles, slate and other forms of roofing. always take the time to determine first whether or not you should walk on the roof.  

Wooden shingles and shakes, clay tiles, slate and other forms of roofing. that are wet, covered with moss, or mildew are very slippery. 

Do not walk on the roof if any of those conditions exist. 
If  wooden shingles and shakes, clay tiles, slate and other forms of roofing.is badly deteriorated, you'll break them if you walk on the roof. Avoid getting on the roof if the condition is bad. 


Better yet, inspect from the eave and be safe.

There is no home inspection standard of practice that states a home inspector must mount the roof. The image was 

InterNACHI SOP for roofing.
V. The inspector is not required to:

1. walk on any roof surface.
2. predict the service life expectancy. 
3. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. 
4. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces.
5. move insulation. 
6. inspect antennae, satellite dishes, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments.
7. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the opinion of the inspector, to be unsafe.
8. walk on any roof areas if it might, in the opinion of the inspector, cause damage. 
9. perform a water test.
10. warrant or certify the roof.
11. confirm proper fastening or installation of any roof-covering material.